My Favorite Thing About Fashion

Fashion Design, was unfortunately not my top choice just because I am by no means a fashionable person. I mean I wear leggings, a big t-shirt or jeans and a t-shirt, if I’m dressed up there has to be good reason. So I guess you could say that coming into Fashion Design, there was motivation to get rid of my usual wardrobe habits. But who am I kidding? I’m a senior, there is no motivation with Graduation less than 2 months away, but in all seriousness I do really enjoy learning how to sew because I enjoy making crafty things and being able to do these things gives me more to do with my mom and my boyfriends mom(They both can’t get enough of crafts, always doing something new). Fashion Design has been a good way for me to take all my pinterest wish list craft ideas and throw them into my reality and make them possible for when i am at home bored not doing anything. So far I think I’m doing pretty great on crafts, I’ve made a pillow, Key fob wrist-let, and with this wonderful blog post I have found the top 10 things I want to learn how to make, hand sewn and by sewing machine. I can’t wait to post progress on these top 10 items.

10 DIY Sewing Crafts

Sewing craft #1-How to make a gathered skirt:

   
Supplies: 
3m medium-weight fabric (like cotton)

1m to 1.5m 20mm elastic tape

Measuring tape

Fabric scissors

Pins

Thread

Sewing machine

Step 1. Prepare your elastic

3m medium-weight fabric (like cotton)

1m to 1.5m 20mm elastic tape

Measuring tape

Fabric scissors

Pins

Thread

Sewing machine

1. Prepare your elastic band:

Step 1
Start by measuring your waist (or where you would like the skirt to sit). Write this number down. This will be your waist measure. Add 1cm to your waist measure. This will be your elastic length. Cut the elastic tape so that it is as long as your elastic length. 

 

Step 2

Overlap the two ends of the elastic by 1cm. Make sure there are no kinks or turns in the elastic. Sew in place using a zigzag stitch. 

 
2. Prepare your waistband:

Step 1
Add 10cm to your waist measure. This will be your waistband length. Cut a rectangle that is your waistband length across and 5.5cm tall. 

 
Step 2

With the right sides together, fold the fabric in half lengthwise, so that the two short ends are touching. Sew using a 1.5cm seam allowance. Press the seam open. 

 
3. Assemble your waistband:

Step 1

Place the elastic band around the fabric waistband. The fabric waistband should have the wrong side facing out. 

 
Step 2

Position the elastic band so that it is 1.5cm from the bottom edge of the fabric waistband. Fold the waistband so that it covers the elastic band. Match the raw edges of the fabric waistband and pin in place. 

 
Step 3

Sew the waistband closed using a 1.5cm allowance and a zigzag stitch. 

 
4. Prepare your skirt:

Step 1

Decide how long you would like the skirt to be. Measure from your waist (or where you would like the skirt to sit) to the point where you would like the skirt to end. Add 3cm. This is your skirt height. 

 
Step 2

Cut a rectangle that is 2.5m long and as tall as your skirt height. Fold in half lengthwise so the two shorter sides are touching. Right sides should be together. Sew using a 1.5cm seam allowance. Press the seam open.  

 
4. Attach your waistband:

Step 1

Mark the four corners of your waistband. Do this by laying the waistband out flat and marking the centre back point, centre front point, and two side points as well. Repeat for the top edge of the skirt. 

 
Step 2

Place the waistband over the skirt, with right sides together. Match the raw edge of the waistband to the raw edge of the skirt.  

 
Step 3

Match the four pins of the waistband to the four pins of the skirt. Pin in place. Gather the excess fabric between these four pins. Pin the excess fabric in place.  

 
Step 4

Sew around the skirt using a zigzag stitch to attach the waistband to the skirt. 

 
5. Hem your skirt

Step 1

Turn the skirt so the wrong side is facing out. Fold the bottom of the skirt over by 1.5cm. Press. 

 
Step 2

Fold the bottom of the skirt over by another 1.5cm. Press 

 
Step 3

Sew around the top of the fold using a straight stitch 
 
Step 4 WEAR YOUR SKIRT! 

All steps and pictures retrieved from: http://crafts.tutsplus.com/tutorials/how-to-make-a-gathered-skirt–craft-18976

Sewing craft #2-DIY Easy Drawstring Sunglasses Case 

 SUPPLIES:
1 pieces fabric 7.75 x 9.5 inches 

1 pieces ribbon or bias tape, cut 16 inches long
Disappearing ink pen
Thread
Pins
Safety Pin
INSTRUCTIONS: 

 Step 1: Finish fabric edges. Fold fabric lengthwise, right sides together. (Folded size is 3 7/8 inches x 9.5 inches.) Using disappearing ink pen, mark points 1.5 inch and 2 inches from top on side with raw edges. The section between the markings will be the opening for the drawstring. 

  Step 2: Starting at top edge, stitch to marking, backstitch and cut thread. Start stitching again at next marking (2 inches from top). Pivot at bottom corner, stitch to folded edge, backstitch and cut threads.  

 Step 3: Press seams open. Make the top casing. Fold top edge down 1.5 inches and press. Fold edge in .5 inch and press. Pin if needed. Topstitch casing in place, stitching close to folded edge about 1 inch from top.

 Step 4: Attach one end of ribbon to safety pin. Thread through casing. Knot ends if desired.

  
All done! All steps and pictures retrieved from: http://www.sewdiy.com/blog/2014/6/17/diy-tutorial-easy-sunglasses-case

Sewing craft #3-iPhone Wallet Tutorial

Supplies:

1/4 yard of main fabric

scraps of coordinating fabric for the flap {or just use your main fabric again}

magnetic purse snap closure {available at most craft stores}

inexpensive plastic case that fits your phone

coordinating embroidery floss & needle

E6000 craft glue

STEP 1: Print out pattern pieces and cut out your fabric. My pattern is sized to fit an iPhone 4, but you could adjust it to fit other sizes.
   
    
    
    
  
    
 All done! All pictures retrieved from: http://www.my3monsters.com/2013/05/diy-iphone-wallet-tutorial.html?m=1

Sewing craft #4-Pink Scalloped Hem Dress

   
  Step 1. Using a shift dress or boxy top you already own as a pattern, cut two DRESS pieces, two SLEEVE pieces, two NECKLINE pieces, and two other strips of fabric you’ll use for the SCALLOP LINING (these need to be 3-4 inches wide).
Step 2. With right sides together, sew the DRESS pieces together at the shoulder seams. Zigzag or serge your seam allowances.
Step 3. Take your dress pieces and cut scallops along the hemline. I used a cup as a guide, and used tailors chalk to mark along the curve of the cup. Do the same along the hem of each sleeve piece (not pictured in the tutorial). 

Step 4. Take your SCALLOP LINING pieces and pin them along the hem of your dress and sleeves with right sides together. Sew the lining to the dress, following the curve of each scallop.
Step 5. Once all your lining pieces have been sewn to the SLEEVES and two DRESS pieces, use scissors to trim along the curves of the scallops. Clip all the way up to the seam at the point in between each scallop to avoid puckering.
Step 6. Now it’s time to attach the sleeves. Line up the top of the sleeve with the bodice shoulder seam (as shown) with right sides together. Pin in place.
Step 7. Continue pinning the sleeve to the bodice, and then sew along the arm hole with a straight stitch. Repeat for the second sleeve.
Step 8. With right sides together, sew the sides of the bodice up with a straight stitch.
Step 9. Take your two NECKLINE LINING pieces and sew them together with right sides together. 
Step 10. Place the LINING over the dress neckline with right sides together, and sew around the entire neckline to attach it. Then flip the lining inside the dress, press it flat, and you’re done!

All pictures and steps retrieved from: http://www.merricksart.com/2015/05/diy-friday-pink-scalloped-hem-dress.html?m=1

Sewing craft #5-DIY Romper
Materials:

1 1/2 yards (roughly) of thin stretchy knit

matching thread

elastic (optional)

Step 1. Using a pair of shorts as a pattern, cut the shorts portion of your romper, adding a 1/2 inch seam allowance (these are oooold shorts, so I added a bit more). Make sure you cut along the folded edge, as seen below. CUT TWO (2) OF THESE. 
  Using a loose fitting tank (or a tank with a loose sweater, like my ridiculous combo below) as a pattern and cut the tank portion of your romper, adding a half inch seam allowance. CUT TWO OF THESE.  
 Take one of your TANK pieces and cut the neckline of one of them to your desired depth (keep in mind that you will be climbing through the neckline to get the romper on, so make it big enough to allow that. Or consider adding a keyhole and button closure in the back). Now you should have four pieces, like the four shown below.  

  Step 2. Take one of your SHORTS pieces and with right sides together, sew up the inseam, as seen below. Repeat with second SHORTS piece. 

  Step 3. With right sides together, pin and sew the two shorts pieces together from the front to the back, matching up the inseams at the crotch, as seen below. 

   Step 4. With right sides together, sew the front and back TANK pieces together at the shoulders, then sew up the sides.  
    Step 5. Fold the neckline of your tank over two times and pin into place. Then sew around the entire neckline with a straight wide stitch. 
 Now sew the arm holes, folding the edge over two times, pinning, and then sewing with a straight stitch, just like the neckline  Step 6. With right sides together, put the SHORTS inside the TANK (as seen below) and sew them together with a straight stitch. My TANK was slightly wider than my SHORTS so I just stretched as I went to avoid bunching.
 Step 7. Determine your desired shorts length and then hem with a wide straight double stitch 

   
All pictures and steps retrieved from: http://www.merricksart.com/2013/06/summer-sunnies-romper-tutorial.html?m=1

Sewing craft #6-DIY Hair Scrunchies

Here’s what you need:  

 Scrap fabric 16″ x 4″Elastic 7″ long – I used the 3/8″ kind Safety pin

Sewing machine and thread

Step 1

Fold fabric in half lengthwise, right sides facing.

Using a 1/2″ seam allowance, sew along the cut edge, leaving 2″ at each end unsewn, to make a tube. Remember to backstitch! 

 Step 2Turn tube right side out and spread out the ends. 

 Step 3Fold one end up to meet the other 

 pin the ends together, right sides facing and sew a 1/2″ seam. Remember to backstitch!   
 You will now have made a loop of fabric like a deflated donut.

Step 4 

Pull on the rest of the loop to pop the seam inside. 

 Step 5Using the safety pin, thread the elastic through the opening and all around the loop. Overlap 1/2″ of each end (i.e. using up a total of 1″ of elastic). Stitch the ends of the elastic together. 

 Step 6
Fold in the seam allowance of the opening and topstitch the opening shut. Try to sew as close to the edge as possible.    
All pictures and steps retrieved from:http://www.ikatbag.com/2009/06/operation-summer-hair-rescue-part-1-how.html?m=1

Sewing craft #7-Pillowcases

1. Grab two interesting fabrics. Pre-wash, dry, and iron them.  

   2. Fold both fabrics in half so that it’s easier to cut rectangles. 

 For the Pillowcase piece: Cut a FOLDED rectangle that’s 20.5 by 26 inches, which means you have two layers of 20.5 by 26 and a fold down one side (this will end up being 41 x 26, as listed in the pattern above when you unfold it)
For the Border piece: Cut a FOLDED rectangle that’s 20.5 x 11 inches, which means you have two layers of 20.5 by 11 and a fold down one side (this will end up being 41 x 11, as listed in the the pattern above when you unfold it)

3. Fold the Border piece in half, lengthwise, and iron down the fold. You now have a long strip that’s 41x 5.5 inches. 

 4. Match up the raw edges of your Border strip with the right side of the Pillowcase piece, and pin the two pieces together: 

 5. Sew the Border Piece to the Pillowcase, using a 3/8 inch or 1/2 inch seam allowance: 

 6. If you have a serger, serge off the seams. If you don’t have a serger, zigzag the edges or leave them raw (serging and zigzagging strengthens your seams and keeps the fabric from fraying over time). 

 7. Iron the seam. Always iron out your seams. Your work will look more professional and less homemade. 

 8. Add a top stitch, about 1/8 inch over from your seam edge. This is optional but it adds extra strength to the seam and a decorative look. 

 9. With right sides of the fabric together, match up the sides and bottom of the pillowcase and pin them together: 

 10. Sew all the way down the Pillowcase side: 

 When you get to the end corner, keep your needle in place, lift your presser foot, and rotate your fabric to sew all the way across the bottom: 

 12. Serge off your seam, zigzag, or leave the edges raw: 

 13. Turn the pillowcase inside out, making sure to push the corners out all the way: 

 14. Iron the seams flat: 

   You’re done! One easy pillowcase; one fun looking pillow.

All pictures and steps retrieved from: http://www.madeeveryday.com/2008/07/tutorial-conkerr-cancer-pillowcases.html

Sewing craft #8-DIY Stuffed Toy 

  
Tools & Supplies:

– The follow SKUs from Fruit Stand by Jane Farnham:

*Fat Quarter of Fabric A: 1240204 #3 for the Mama’s Body

*Fat Eighth of Fabric B: 1240201 #3 for the Mama’s Ear

*Fat Quarter of Fabric C: 2140204 #2 for the Baby’s Body

*Fat Eighth of Fabric D: 2140207 #1 for the Baby’s Ear

– yarn in coordinating colors: 36” for the Mama, and 12” for the Baby

– embroidery floss in contrasting color

– fiber stuffing or fabric scraps

– paper printer

– basic sewing supplies:

– sewing machine

– iron & pressing surface

– needle & coordinating thread

– scissors & fabric shears

– straight pins

– fabric marker
 
Notes:

1. Please wash, dry & iron your fabric before beginning.

2. A 1/4” seam allowance is included in the template. Unless otherwise indicated, please use this allowance for all seams.
 
Cutting:

1. Print the Endearing Elephants template at 100% of its actual size, and cut out the pieces.

2. Trace the template pieces onto folded double layers of the appropriate fabric as indicated on the template, and cut out the pieces in fabric. You should have (2) of each piece, mirror images of one another. 

 3. Mark the tail & ear placements on the Wrong Sides of your fabric as indicated on the pattern pieces.

4. Cut your yarn into (6) 6” lengths for the Mama’s tail, and (3) 4” length’s for the Baby’s tail.

Assembly:
1. Sew each A-B and D-C pair of Ear pieces together, Right Sides facing, leaving their straight edges open.

2. Press the seam open and turn the Ears Right Sides out.

3. Sew a Head piece to its matching Body piece, Right Sides together, with an Ear piece sandwiched between them. The Ear’s accent fabric (B or D) should be against the Body piece. Note: make sure that the Ear is placed between the “Ear Placement” marks on the Body piece.  

  4. Tie all the yarn pieces for the Mama’s tail together with a knot at one end, and braid the remainder. Repeat with the Baby’s tail.  
  
5. Tack your braided tail to the “Tail Placement” mark on one of the appropriate elephant’s Body pireces as shown, with the loose end toward the fabric’s edge. 
 
6. Tuck the Ears against their Body pieces to keep them out of the way, and sew each pair of Elephant sides together, Right Sides facing. Leave a gap at the Elephants’ back legs as shown. Clip your corners, press the seams open and turn your Elephants Right Side out.  

 7. Un-pin the Ears, stuff your Elephants and sew the gaps closed by hand.

8. Embroider an eye on each side of the Elephants’ faces with a satin stitch.  

All pictures and steps retrieved from: http://www.camelotfabricsblog.com/?p=3122

Sewing craft #9-Handmade Baby Shoes Things You’ll Need:

1/8 yard of cotton fabric for the outside of the shoe

1/8 yard of cotton fabric for the lining of the shoe

White paper

Paper scissors

Pins

Fabric scissors

Sewing machine with a universal 90/14 needle

Coordinating thread

Iron

Hand sewing needle

1/4-inch coordinating double-fold bias tape 

 Prewash and dry your fabric. This is important. You do not want the shoes to shrink in the wash later.
Download a baby shoe pattern or draw your own. To make your own pattern, trace around the foot of the baby (or a baby shoe) on a piece of blank paper and add a 1/4 inch for a seam. This will be the bottom sole. Then draw a top pattern piece like the shape pictured that is the same length as the sole and roughly follows the same curve. Cut out the pattern with paper scissors. Fold the fabric in half and pin the patterns to it. Place the top pattern piece on the fold.  

 Cut out four bottom pieces and four top pieces — two from the lining fabric and two from the outer shoe fabric. 
 Fold the top pieces in half with the right sides together. 
 Pin and sew the back raw edges together with a 1/4-inch seam. Leave a 1-inch opening in each of the lining pieces. 
 Line up the top pieces with the edges of the bottom pieces with the right sides together. Pin the top pieces to the bottom pieces where they overlap around the soles. 
 Sew the tops to the bottoms of the shoes with a 1/4-inch seam. Remove the pins as you sew. 
 Notch around the curves of the seam allowance on all pieces with a sharp pair of scissors. Be careful not to clip into the stitching. This will help the shoes lie flat when you turn them right-side out. 
 Turn the outsides of the shoes right-side out and press the seams with a hot iron. 
 Place the outsides of the shoes inside the linings so that the right sides are together. 
 Pin the top raw edges of the shoes together and sew with a 1/4-inch seam. Remove the pins as you sew. 
 To turn the shoes right-side out, pull them through the openings in the back of the lining. 
 After the shoes are turned right-side out, use a whipstitch to hand sew the openings closed. 
 Tuck the linings inside the shoes and press around all of the edges with an iron. 
 Topstitch around the top edge of the shoes. Then, add a piece of 1/4-inch bias tape for a strap by using a needle and thread to hand sew it to the shoe. You can buy coordinating bias tape in the store or you can make your own matching bias tape by following this tutorial.   

  All pictures and steps retrieved from: http://www.ehow.com/ehow-crafts/blog/handmade-fabric-baby-shoes/?utm_source=pinterest.com&utm_medium=cpc&utm_content=blog&utm_campaign=crafts&crlt.pid=camp.bNHTVJyTaN7P&crlt.pid=camp.OxQMK7yolHMo&pp=0

Sewing craft #10-DIY Pillowcase Dress

One Embroidered Pillowcase

Needle and Thread (Sewing machine recommended)

2 yds of 3/8-1/2 inch ribbon, cut into 2 pieces

Directions How To Make A Pillowcase Dress

Measure your child from the shoulder to where you want the hem to rest and then add approx 7/8in to the total. (Figure 1) 
 The following measurements can also be used.

6 months – 14 1/4in

12 months – 16 1/4in

18 months – 17 1/4in

2T – 18 1/4in

3T – 19 1/4in

4T – 20 1/4in

From the hemmed edge, measure up the length that you just determined and cut straight across the top to remove the pillowcase portion. This cut portion will be the top of the dress. (Figure 2) 

 Fold the pillowcase vertically in half (Figure 3) 

 Cut armholes into the pillowcase. (Figure 4) By folding the case in half, you have now created two identical armholes. (Figure 5) The shape of the armholes should be like a J. For a smaller child, make the armholes 1.5in wide and 3in deep. For a larger child make it 2in wide and 4in deep. 

   
Now hem each armhole to avoid fraying.(Figure 6) 

 Fold the top of the front and back of the pillowcase, first 1/4in then 5/8in to form a casing. (Figure 7) 

 Sew a seam to stitch this closed. (Figure 8) 

 Thread 1 yd of ribbon through each casing by using a small bobby pin. (Figure 9) 

 Tie a small knot at the ends of each ribbon. (Figure 10) 

 Take the ribbon from the front and back, and tie bows on the shoulders. (Figure 11) 

 
All pictures and ideas retrieved from: http://m.bumblebeelinens.com/pillowcaseDress.php